New N.J. Italian restaurant is latest gem hidden in a strip mall | Review

If you’re dining at a restaurant owned by the Bitici family, chances are you’re in for a treat.

Such is the case with Amerigo in Berkeley Heights. The spawn of restaurant veterans and brothers Ilir and and Mentor Bitici, their latest endeavor is all about elevating classic Italian-American dishes.

Fiorino, the family’s outpost in Summit focuses on Tuscan and northern Italian cuisine. With Amerigo, the Biticis aspired to celebrate the way Italian cooking has impacted American, Brazilian and Argentinian cuisine.

“We have a lot of familiar Italian-American dishes on the menu, mixed with some more upscale items,” Ilir Bitici told NJ Advance Media. “You don’t really see baked ziti on restaurant menus, so we wanted to do it in a way that’s fits in with the rest of the menu while evoking a sense of nostalgia.”

The nostalgia goes beyond the menu — nearly everything in the restaurant is either vintage or reclaimed. The 1940s Christofle cart is from their uncle’s restaurant in New York City. Bitici insists their Faema Baby Milan E61 coffee machine “pulls better espresso than any of the newer machines on the market.”

It’s clear that the Bitici family is proud of their restaurant legacy, as well as their recent acclaim for taking the top spot in our spicy rigatoni ranking, but I was pleasantly surprised to learn that isn’t the only dish worth the visit to Union County.

The good

Baked clams oreganato ($17) is a dish that’s pretty synonymous with Christmas Eve in Italian-American households. While my family doesn’t do clams (we enjoy a similar dish made with sole) this oreganato sent me straight to my favorite holiday of the year. These were a stellar version packed with tender clams, crunchy breadcrumb topping and a buttery garlic, white wine and lemon sauce that made them all the more succulent. I could’ve crushed the entire order myself, but practiced restraint in the interest of saving room for other dishes.

I wouldn’t normally order a fresh tomato-based dish in the dead of winter, but was told the rustic bruschetta ($11) was a must-order. They were not wrong. I couldn’t believe how delicious the cherry tomatoes were, bursting with each bite of grilled bread topped with ricotta and olive oil.

Growing up, my family always had a nice little salad on the table, which we usually ate at the end of the meal (a tradition that still exists in Italy). Amerigo’s chopped salad ($13) nailed all of the familiar flavors with a blend of romaine, Berlgian endive, tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions, Calabrian pepper and a simple vinegar-based dressing. Light and fresh, it was the perfect compliment to the heavier starters on the table.

Venturing on to the pastas, I felt it necessary to revisit the spicy vodka rigatoni ($24), and am delighted to report that it was just as delicious as the first time I tried it. The chef cooked the pasta to an an impressive al dente, and the noodles were enrobed in a velvety vodka sauce infused with a healthy kick from Calabrian chilies. Amerigo is as dependable as it gets when it comes to this dish, and I will continue to return for it any time the craving strikes.

Among several other delicious-sounding pastas, the oven-fired baked ziti ($26) was another standout. Served casserole-style with a golden brown cheese crust. The dish was was simple yet comforting, striking a great balance of gooey, crispy, saucy and cheesy.

The sleeper of the entire meal was the lasagna Bolognese ($27), a square of sheer perfection that continues to haunt my thoughts. Growing up on Neapolitan-style lasagna had me a bit skeptical of this Northern Italian version featuring béchamel and meat ragu. But wow, did it quell any doubts. Dense yet melt-in-your-mouth tender, it had an elegance that all other lasagne should aspire to. No slipping or sliding — just forkful after forkful of creamy, meaty luxury with the occasion crunch of a crispy edge.

Moving on to the mains, I was surprised by how clean and healthy the eggplant parmigiana ($23) was. Amerigo’s version was made with grilled eggplant stacked with four cheeses and marinara sauce. I enjoyed how eggplant-forward it was, but parmigiana enthusiasts may feel it lacks the creaminess that its fried counterparts possess. The pasta served with parmigiana dinners is usually an afterthought, but I found Amerigo’s spaghetti to be the star of the dish. Freshly made at Fiorino’s, Bitici brings it over to Amerigo weekly to serve alongside their entrees.

Veering off the core menu to the specials, we landed on the slow cooked veal osso buco ($41), a hearty dish of tender veal drenched in a delicious jus, served over creamy cannelloni beans and bitter escarole. This well-rounded dish was a welcome departure from all of the red sauce and instantly made me lament that it might not be available during a future visit.

We rounded out the meal with Batici’s wife’s homemade panettone eggnog bread pudding ($11), the perfect fusion of Italy and the holidays in dessert form. Custardy, sweet and studded with softened dried fruit, the warm pudding had great structure. Topped with imported vanilla gelato, the combination was sublime.

The bad

The only item I found underwhelming was the complimentary bread basket, a mix of sliced Italian bread and focaccia. Adorable presentation aside (it comes in a literal basket with a charming metal jug of olive oil), the focaccia was cold and dry, and the Italian bread was just adequate. I enjoyed the focaccia soaked in a nice pour of olive oil, but wasn’t tempted to devour the whole basket like I’ve done some other Jersey Italian spots.

The vibe

Updated old-school Italian with nods to the Italian explorer and America’s namesake is the vibe at Amerigo. Guests are welcomed into a spacious dining room outfitted with red checkered tablecloths, rustic wood, cozy banquettes and counter seating. Beyond the counter, “The Buxton Room” offers addition seating and a private dining option, donning ornate wallpaper that pays tribute to Amerigo Vespucci. Bitici family Antiques are peppered throughout the dining room and add a lived-in, grandma’s house element to space. Decked out in holiday decor during my visit, I thoroughly enjoyed the extra layer of cozy it added to the overall experience.

The dining room filled up quickly on a frigid Friday night, a mix of families, couples, and even the random out-of-towner — I overheard the couple seated next to me shared with their server that they pulled off the road during a long drive without a plan, serendipitous and very grateful that they landed at Amerigo.

The bottom line

The Bitici family delivers another Jersey gem with Amerigo. Located in an an unassuming strip mall, the restaurant is a destination for quality, comforting Italian American food. Familiar favorites evoke a sense of nostalgia, while more elevated dishes add a much-appreciated twist. Consistently delicious with a focus on freshness, Amerigo is casual enough for a quick dinner out, and well-suited for a special occasion. Friendly and attentive service was the punctuation of on overall stellar dining experience.

Related coverage:

• At sensational new N.J. restaurant, beloved brunch chefs dive into dinner | Review

• The 13 best N.J. restaurants for spicy vodka sauce, pasta’s hottest trend, ranked

• Stunning new N.J. Italian restaurant’s pasta showstopper outdoes Carbone | Review

• The 99 foods every Italian-American should know, and where to get them in N.J.

• This N.J. café has gone viral for their Italian dessert lattes. Is it worth the hype?

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Stephanie Rizzolo may be reached at stephanienjdotcom@gmail.com. Find NJ.com on Facebook.